Setting a brilliant

I have made a video (8:51). In it i show how to set a brilliant into a plain ring using a burnisher tool. This kind of setting is very safety and quick if it’s done correctly. You can use this kind of setting everywhere you need to have a undamaged surface or where you can’t refinish the surface. I recommend to practice this very often before you do it on a real piece of jewelry.

If there is a red x only, try Firefox. Otherwise you can watch the video here also.

The steps i make while setting

Perhaps you do not see at all what i do while setting. Here are some pictures for a better understanding.

Brilliant setting – step one

brillant in the hole

brilliant in the hole

This is very important – the stone must perfect fit into the hole!

Brilliant setting – step two

watch out where the pressure goes

watch out where the pressure goes

close up

close up

Brilliant setting – last step

Complete it - turn around

Complete it - turn around

12 thoughts on “Setting a brilliant

  1. I just saw your excellent video om making the ribs for the violin. Extremely well done, and easy to follow. This video, however, I cannot open for some reason. There is only a little red “x” in the top left corner of the box. Thank you so much for offering such beautiful instructions.

  2. Hello and thank you very much for all the time and passion you are sharing with us…
    I saw your very nice videos too on ganoskin.

    I have few questions for you if I may ask. What kind of burr are you using at the last step please? Is the size of this burr exactly the same as the stone circumference? Is there a method to choose the right ball burr matching with the stone (2nd step after drilling)…

    many thanks for your reply :-)

    Honored to meet you Mario.

    Philippe

    • Thank you for the time you spend on it!
      The burr you can use in the last step could be a “High Speed Steel 90 Degree Bearing Bur” or a “Tungsten Vanadium 90 Degree Bur”. In an optimal way it has the same size as the stone. Of course there a stones that doesn’t fit to the burr sizes. If this is happen, i have to choose the next smaller one. With it i have to mill out the seat of the stone until it match to it’s size. It needs some practice… ;-)

      The size of the ball bur i prefer have to be smaller than the size of the stone. The seat (the support where the stone lays on) have to be only three or four tenth millimeter.

      The rest of the hole is for easy cleaning the stone after polishing or wearing (some dirt by the customer).

      If there are more questions, please feel free to ask.

      Best to you Philippe!

  3. Hello, Mario: I have been watching your videos on Ganoskin and I must say, “You are the master! The violin project is stunning. The reason I am commenting here is the information you have so freely given about stone setting. I would have never known how it was done, otherwise. Thank you so much for sharing! I don’t know that I will ever use the information, but I know have it, courtesy of you.

    I am 80 years old, and jewelry making is my hobby. Something to keep my mind active so that I don’t become a vegetable. I do simple wire work, nothing intricate. I am beginning to branch out into metal work, having recently bought some tools along that line of work. So, I may yet set a stone or two!

    And thanks for posting the list of tools. I hope you will be able to find the time to finish the list. It is always helpful to get lists as it is easy to overlook what is really needed and buy what you really don’t need.

    I wish I could read German! I could then enjoy your writing and work much better.

    Best wishes, John

    • Hello John!
      Thank you so much for your kind words! And also thank you telling about you. It gives me hope – maybe i could still do my work in a few years like you do.

      At this moment i am too busy to go on with my little homepage. Somehow the day hasn’t enough hours :-) But there is a thing i would do gladly: if it is possible, please send me a picture or two or three…
      If you like, i’ll post them here for showing – if you agree. I am sure, your wire work is interesting. Please, think about it.

      All the best to you!
      Mario

  4. Thank you for your kind offer to post a picture of my humble wire work. I will be happy to send some, but I don’t know where to send them.

    Just for fun, I looked up a satellite view of your city and your address of business on google. You live in a very pretty town!

    Best regards,
    John

    • John – that is really funny! I did the same and looked up via google-earth to you! Great thing, the web :-)
      I send you an e-mail today.
      Thank you and best regards,
      Mario.

  5. HI Mario,
    I watched the stonesetting video on Ganoksin and I thought it was very concise and informative. I love seeing how other jewellers work and I did learn form you. Thank you for taking the time to do it and also the violin series. Amazing. I do hope you have time to do more on basic tecniques. Thanks again. Ruth in the UK.

    Ps, Your pics are lovely John. Very neat, nice work. Do keep it up.

    • Hello Ruth, thank you!
      Same thing here – i also love to watch how others do their work :-)
      At this moment i am working on a ring. It’s a restoration work. I believe, this ring was build in the UK (it looks like that). When finished, i`ll show some pictures here.

  6. Very good video. A quick question – where did you get this type of burnisher? There are a lot of different burnishers on the market, would like to get a right one for the job.
    Thank you

    • Hello Nina!
      The burnisher is a tool, which is made by my self. I build three or four of them in different sizes. They are made of steel and it is very easy to build them – never bought one. The dimension depends on the size of the work – the size of the stone. Smaller ones need a smaller forefront.
      Keep in mind they need to be polished and take care when practicing. If you never did it before, practice a lot before you go to the real stuff.
      Mario

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